MY FAN SYSTEM DOES NOT SUCK!!

I just had to use that line, since as I expected all along, the 1/2-inch PVC line from the collector was just too restrictive. The fan was just churning away inside the fan housing, but there was just not enough air flow to pull the heated air from the collector. No sense even hooking the circulation system to the collector since the air temp would easily top that 250 degree mark while the fan would be doing it's best to....suck....that air out.

So how did I get to that conclusion? Que more pictures!!!

The outlet is on the left, attached to the wood frame which is attached to the fan. Notice the attractive cover for the batteries? That prevents air from skirting beneath the expertly made intake housing shown on the right as well as having the heated air blowing directly onto the batteries on the way to the fan.

I realize anyone reading this will think the same as I did when looking at that small diameter PVC line. I believe I recited the phrase "Not a chance" on multiple occasions.

With the housing in place (but without showing the superb duct tape sealing work to further eliminate losses) the unit was complete. With no significant air losses, I could hold the unit up to my face and barely detect a current. All I had to do was pull the housing back a bit, thus allowing air to freely get to the fan intake side and there was more than enough current. SO, since this current configuration does NOT suck, I have to re-design the air circulation system so it WILL suck. Rest assured I had actually been working on this all along. More to come shortly.

Just a quick observation concerning the duct tape. I was concerned that the visual distortion through the glass and the gooey paint only made the duct tape look to have melted but on closer examination (I removed the jar) it did indeed melt and separate. A good friend indicated his father's system, after some long service, failed at glued components due to heat. So that portion of the project will need additional attention.

Here is a a bit of "hands-on" high-tech methodology used to prepare the pop cans. I stick with one type in order to insure uniformity and join the cans bottom to bottom and top to top.

Hands-on because I grind the bottom of the can off by holding the can down against sandpaper on a table top, and sand it with a twisting motion. I try to avoid sliding the can because that could lead to uneven abrasion. Granted, after a few cans, I sensed my perfectionist attitudes were being ground away as well. Wear a heavy leather glove if you plan to grind more that a couple cans.

The can on the right shows the results of the bottom being sanded away. I start with 60 grit, then 100 and a final smoothing with a 220 grit. If you wash the cans out, the remaining water will seep out as you get close to finishing and muck up your sandpaper, so before sanding, toss a piece of paper towel into the can and wipe it around with a screw driver. Like trying to not bite into a tootsie-pop, you'll probably not sand until the bottom drops off. Instead you will notice the beginnings of the separation and with a thumb nail, just complete the task. I give an extra couple swipes with the 220 grit to eliminate any burrs that remain.

The top is cut out using a Dremel. I made a wood stand for the Dremel so I could hold the can with two hands. That makes the job much easier.

I set the cans against something to help them stay aligned and used the block on the right to help keep them together. Obviously the contact is quite good throughout. After smearing the adhesive around the joint, it sets pretty fast and can be stood on end to dry.

The picture above was similar to the cans I used in my collector but because the two cans were about 1/16-inch too long to fit in the jar, I cut off one end (hot air intake side) just below the seam. Then I painted the cans with some old flat black oil based heat-resistant paint that I found on a shelf...hiding. I suspect I'll get a fresh can of the spray variety when repairing my "melted" components as the paint was still tacky after 15 hours and was not very "flat".

When installing the cans, I had a momentary lapse of judgement and had to unbolt and remove them from the, jar lid, which was already attached to the base.  During the removal process I saw just how weak in tension this adhesive was and the cans pulled apart. I stuck them together and with it's tackiness, almost seemed adequate. But for good measure I added duct tape! One of the universal corrective materials that should always be on hand.

I indicate that this component "melted". The duct tape did have issues with being subjected to 250-degree F plus temperatures. I know just grabbing the thermometer that was measuring the internal temperatures that if I were in there, I would also have melted.

My next project will most likely use six rows of 7 cans each, and be roughly 3-feet-long, so this technique for cutting the cans will be used extensively. I will have to discover a better, heat resistant adhesive and devise a more structural means of support for that system. I simply hate when my cans droop and fall apart.